By exposing the foundation and using the required waterproofing material to create a foundation waterproofing system that will redirect and disperse water away from your foundation walls, exterior waterproofing, also sometimes referred to as external waterproofing, fixes your leaky basement from the outside of your house. This is the most popular method for repairing the basement foundation and one of the finest waterproofing options for leaky basements.
Hydraulic cement, two layers of Hydro Guard rubberized membrane, reinforcing mesh, air-gap drainage membrane, drainage tile (weeping tile), and 3/4-inch gravel are the components used for waterproofing.
The Differences Between Damp-proofing vs. Waterproofing Your Basement
Is there a distinction between “waterproofing” and “damp-proofing” when it comes to the basement and external foundation of your house? What is meant by these terms?
There are differences – and these differences are extremely significant!
The procedure of applying a thin layer of a liquid asphalt-based compound to your foundation is known as exterior damp proofing. Damp proofing does not offer any crack-bridging properties because there is no rubber. When a property is being built, damp proofing is done to ensure that it only satisfies the bare minimum of building code requirements. It typically costs $20 to $30 to cover 100 feet of any base. The lack of waterproofing or moisture proofing in homes constructed before 1980 has caused the foundations to deteriorate. While damp proofing helps keep out some moisture, water can still seep in.
The technique of exterior waterproofing bridges movement-induced gaps or flaws to waterproof and seal foundations. Our primary waterproofing method makes use of Hydro Guard, a commercial-grade solution from RCC. The application process involves two layers, and the cost to cover 20 feet is between $200 and $250. Unlike damp-proofing, RCC can offer 50 years of protection against dampness and water intrusion by using a commercial-grade waterproofing compound.
NOTE: Be wary of the materials you employ to finish the waterproofing of your property. In order to lower the cost of their supplies, many waterproofers and contractors may make promises to perform waterproofing but instead employ damp-proofing solutions.
Exterior Waterproofing Benefits
Reduces the moisture in a basement
This eliminates sources of musty odors and allergens within your home.
Eliminates foundation wall deterioration while improving the structural soundness:
This leads to reduced costs of future home repairs and prevents loss of personal belongings due to a water-leakage.
Increase your property value
When a home experiences moisture and water issues, it may lead to a drop in the value of home. Realtors usually recommend hiring waterproofers to fix basement issues, making waterproofing pivotal to increasing the value of your home.
Strengthens the foundation of your home
Water leaks can weaken the structural base of your foundation, leading to future problems like interior cracks and shifting of your floors.
Waterproofing gives you peace of mind for the structural safety of your home and the security of your belongings.
Common Exterior Leak Problems
Basement Window Wells
Water build up around near-grade basement windows can cause water infiltration through your window sill.
The addition or replacement of malfunctioning window wells accompanied with installation of vertical weeping tile and a bedding of 3/4 gravel will ensure that water entering your window area will be drained. This will prevent leaks in your foundation and flooding of your basement.
Block or Brick Foundation Homes
Block and brick walls contain air voids and mortar joints that could allow water flow to enter the cervices of your walls.
A combination of external and internal waterproofing methods can be used to prevent and repair water infiltration within block and brick foundations. Water pooling found inbetween brick walls are drained by drilling through the interior of the foundation to drain the water buildup.
Joint leaks include the junctions between your wall and footing, your basement floor and foundation and the joints where new extensions have been built.
Hydraulic Cement is used to patch and fill these various types of joints. The modified cement is key to preventing further damage and water leaks.
Top of Foundation
The Sill, or where the foundation meets the brick could become a spot where water leakage happens if the sill is not sealed or if the original seal has deteriorated.
Maintaining the Sill using a waterproof sealer is important for fixing this issue and preventing water penetration into you sill. Even though there is no hydrostatic pressure, water can still find its way through this spot.
Exterior Waterproofing Process
1.Excavation must be done all the way around the structure for outside waterproofing: The majority of excavations are around 2 ½ feet broad and 4 to 8 feet deep. The elevation of your property determines the excavation’s proportions.
2. Installation of Speed Shoring: This keeps the excavation site from filling in with dirt again while protecting employees.
3. Old Weeping Tiles are Removed: Excavation is carried out until the footing is reached, at which point the old weeping tile may be removed. After that, a brand-new 4-inch weeping tile with a filter cloth is put in.
4. Cleaning and Inspection of the Foundation Walls: After that, the foundation walls are cleaned and examined for any gaps or fractures in the structure. The damaged sections are removed by chiseling, and the gaps are filled up with specific cement that doesn’t shrink when used.
5. Application of Trowel-On Rubber Membrane: This is a crucial part of waterproofing your foundation from the outside. In the event that the foundation settles and moves farther, it is intended to lengthen and expand.
6. Installation of mesh on top of membrane and final layer of rubber waterproofing: This serves as a supplementary rubber layer and is utilized to strengthen the rubber membrane’s initial layer.
7. Soil side drainage sheet is fastened to the top of termination bar: Better than residential grade dimple boards, commercial grade drainage serves as both a protection board and a drainage membrane.
8. Installing Window Wells: In case any windows in your house are below grade and you need a window well installed. Installed vertically from the interior of the window well to the footings is a 4-inch weeping tile. Make sure the pipe and weeping tile are apart from one another to avoid clogging.
9. A layer of 3/4 inch clear gravel is placed over the weeping tile: Used to increase drainage capacity. In order to avoid excessive water absorption through the weeping tile, which might cause clogging or sluggish drainage, the gravel layer is blended with the soil.
10. Area is refilled with native soil and compacted to the original level: You will have completely waterproofed your foundation and won’t experience any more problems with water seeping into the interior or exterior of your basement after the earth has been moved back to its original locations.