External waterproofing, alternatively known as exterior waterproofing, addresses basement leaks by accessing the outer perimeter of your home. This method involves exposing the foundation and applying appropriate waterproofing materials to establish a robust waterproofing system. By effectively redirecting and dispersing water away from the foundation walls, this approach stands out as a premier solution for combating leaky basements. It remains the predominant technique utilized for rectifying basement foundation issues.
The materials utilized for waterproofing include hydraulic cement, two layers of Hydro Guard rubberized membrane, reinforcing mesh, air-gap drainage membrane, drainage tile (weeping tile), and 3/4-inch gravel.
The Differences Between Damp-proofing vs. Waterproofing Your Basement
Is there a distinction between “waterproofing” and “damp-proofing” when it comes to the basement and external foundation of your house? What is meant by these terms?
There are differences – and these differences are extremely significant!
The process of exterior damp proofing involves coating your foundation with a thin layer of a liquid asphalt-based material. Since there is no rubber, damp proofing does not provide any crack-bridging capabilities. Damp proofing is done while constructing a property to make sure it only meets the minimal minimum of building code standards. The average cost to cover 100 feet of any base is $20 to $30. The foundations of homes built before 1980 have deteriorated due to a lack of moisture proofing or waterproofing. Water can still sneak in even when damp proofing helps keep out part of the moisture.
In order to waterproof and seal foundations, exterior waterproofing bridges gaps or faults caused by movement. Our main waterproofing technique is RCC’s Hydro Guard, a commercial-grade product. Two layers are involved in the application process, and it costs between $200 and $250 to cover 20 feet. When utilizing a commercial-grade waterproofing solution, RCC can provide 50 years of protection against moisture and water intrusion, in contrast to damp-proofing.
NOTE: Exercise caution when selecting the materials you use to complete your property’s waterproofing. Many waterproofers and contractors may profess to undertake waterproofing but use damp-proofing techniques instead in order to reduce the cost of their supplies.
Exterior Waterproofing Benefits
Reduces the moisture in a basement
This eliminates sources of musty odors and allergens within your home.
Eliminates foundation wall deterioration while improving the structural soundness:
This leads to reduced costs of future home repairs and prevents loss of personal belongings due to a water-leakage.
Increase your property value
When a home experiences moisture and water issues, it may lead to a drop in the value of home. Realtors usually recommend hiring waterproofers to fix basement issues, making waterproofing pivotal to increasing the value of your home.
Strengthens the foundation of your home
Water leaks can weaken the structural base of your foundation, leading to future problems like interior cracks and shifting of your floors.
Waterproofing gives you peace of mind for the structural safety of your home and the security of your belongings.
Common Exterior Leak Problems
Basement Window Wells
Water build up around near-grade basement windows can cause water infiltration through your window sill.
The addition or replacement of malfunctioning window wells accompanied with installation of vertical weeping tile and a bedding of 3/4 gravel will ensure that water entering your window area will be drained. This will prevent leaks in your foundation and flooding of your basement.
Block or Brick Foundation Homes
Block and brick walls contain air voids and mortar joints that could allow water flow to enter the cervices of your walls.
A combination of external and internal waterproofing methods can be used to prevent and repair water infiltration within block and brick foundations. Water pooling found inbetween brick walls are drained by drilling through the interior of the foundation to drain the water buildup.
Joint leaks include the junctions between your wall and footing, your basement floor and foundation and the joints where new extensions have been built.
Hydraulic Cement is used to patch and fill these various types of joints. The modified cement is key to preventing further damage and water leaks.
Top of Foundation
The Sill, or where the foundation meets the brick could become a spot where water leakage happens if the sill is not sealed or if the original seal has deteriorated.
Maintaining the Sill using a waterproof sealer is important for fixing this issue and preventing water penetration into you sill. Even though there is no hydrostatic pressure, water can still find its way through this spot.
Exterior Waterproofing Process
1.Excavation must be done all the way around the structure for outside waterproofing: The majority of excavations are around 2 ½ feet broad and 4 to 8 feet deep. The elevation of your property determines the excavation’s proportions.
2. Installation of Speed Shoring: This keeps the excavation site from filling in with dirt again while protecting employees.
3. Old Weeping Tiles are Removed: Excavation is carried out until the footing is reached, at which point the old weeping tile may be removed. After that, a brand-new 4-inch weeping tile with a filter cloth is put in.
4. Cleaning and Inspection of the Foundation Walls: After that, the foundation walls are cleaned and examined for any gaps or fractures in the structure. The damaged sections are removed by chiseling, and the gaps are filled up with specific cement that doesn’t shrink when used.
5. Application of Trowel-On Rubber Membrane: This is a crucial part of waterproofing your foundation from the outside. In the event that the foundation settles and moves farther, it is intended to lengthen and expand.
6. Installation of mesh on top of membrane and final layer of rubber waterproofing: This serves as a supplementary rubber layer and is utilized to strengthen the rubber membrane’s initial layer.
7. Soil side drainage sheet is fastened to the top of termination bar: Better than residential grade dimple boards, commercial grade drainage serves as both a protection board and a drainage membrane.
8. Installing Window Wells: In case any windows in your house are below grade and you need a window well installed. Installed vertically from the interior of the window well to the footings is a 4-inch weeping tile. Make sure the pipe and weeping tile are apart from one another to avoid clogging.
9. A layer of 3/4 inch clear gravel is placed over the weeping tile: Used to increase drainage capacity. In order to avoid excessive water absorption through the weeping tile, which might cause clogging or sluggish drainage, the gravel layer is blended with the soil.
10. Area is refilled with native soil and compacted to the original level: You will have completely waterproofed your foundation and won’t experience any more problems with water seeping into the interior or exterior of your basement after the earth has been moved back to its original locations.